Wednesday, May 21, 2008

My Man Michelangelo



Today I had no classes because my Italian teacher had canceled them for today and Thursday, so I had planned on making a day of it and visiting sites that wouldn't be seen on our regular tours or classes. Although we are scheduled to
go to Santa Croce tomorrow I just couldn't wait for it--especially since I would had to visit Michelangelo's funerary monument on my own since I'm sure we will focus our attention somewhere else in the Church.




So I got up early and did my laundry... as soon as it was up on the line I made the short walk to Santa Croce and within short time (despite the tourist and school groups) made it inside. Unfortunately the view of the whole chapel was marred by a lot of floor to ceiling scaffolding. It took me a moment to locate Michelangelo's tomb (I had assumed it was on the opposite wall) but it was the first one I visited. The fruit of my labor! The most favorite of my subjects for research! The monument I know inside and out! I was ecstatic. : )


Michelangelo's Tomb was architected by Giorgio Vasari-known as the first art historian. With money donated from Cosimo di Medici and help from the Accademie di Disegno he threw a funeral ceremony that rivaled monarchs, only fitting for the partria or "father" of the arts. The tomb was Vasari's final project, and it was completed by his assistants a year after his death.

Other tombs located in Santa Croce included Galileo (who wasn't granted a Christian burial until 100 years after his death), Machiavelli (writer of The Prince, and infamous handbook for dictators), the writer of the Barber of Seville (Figaro! Figaro!) and a sister of Napoleon Bonaparte. There is also a monument to Dante although his body was not interred here as he had been exiled for being of a rival noble family. Another interesting is a robe of St. Francis held in a reliquary.





After walking the tombs I peered into some of the chapels which had fantastic fresco programs, and then ventured through the courtyard and to its side museum which housed a fantastic and imposing Crucifix by Giotto's master, Cimabue--which had misfortune in 1966 when the Arno flooded. The waters ripped the Crucifix off of the wall and was unable to be found for days. When the friars finally did find it, it was covered in mud. They believe much of the damage was due to chairs bumping into it. It's story was remarkably sad and what is there to day was as much as they were able to restore of it.




On the back wall of the refractory (eating area for the friars) is a fresco that is considered to be one of the first last suppers--and most importantly, where Leonardo got the idea for his famous composition for a refractory in Milan (unfortunately, I tried to book a viewing but they are all full up until mid-July!). We still plan on going to Milan!


For lunch, I promised to meet up with some of my roommates for more of that delicious pizza from Gusta Pizza. Afterwards, the weather became poor again and we headed back to the apartment. My original plan was to then go and see the Medici Chapels, but I learned that the newly discovered Michelangelo drawings were under restoration, so I will wait a little while before I head there and pray that I can view the drawings before I leave.

Instead of going out I stayed inside and tried to nap. Later that evening I was in the student center and was lucky enough to chat with Karl for awhile. I stayed there until close, went to the supermarket and went home.

1 comment:

Khabbah said...

Dante's "tomb" brings me to tears every time I look at it. Thank you.